ANALYSIS
Agenda-setting, priming and framing theories have been
successfully researched since the 1970s, but continue to draw controversy and
question over their methodology and generalizability (Paletz, 142-143). Critics argue that
additional factors may impact what news gets covered and why only certain information is
presented. For instance during the Vietnam War the United States press corps depended on
the government for much of its information, thus the government had the ability to shape
the agenda. Alternatively, the public can embrace an issue and the media can respond by
saturating the market with the issue, evidenced by the Ethiopia famine coverage in the
1980s that attracted celebrity attention and concern prior to becoming saturated in
the media. Moreover, the personal views of a news correspondent can both prevent certain
views from being presented as well as promoting certain views (Fallows, 36-37).
The process of "news-making" is multi-faceted, making any grand theory
problematic. Political and social scientists are often confined to manageable research
projects, resulting in the use of case studies, which are in and of themselves monstrous
tasks. As Political Communication scholar John Zaller explains, "the effect of Media
Politics on political outcomes must be demonstrated on a case-by-case basis, because
sometimes the effects are real and lasting and other times they are not" (Zaller,
187). The Kathie Lee Gifford sweatshop scandal provides a context in which to evaluate the
phenomenon of media agenda-setting, framing and priming.
This analysis seeks to confirm that the media selected the Gifford scandal for its
entertainment value, ultimately generating increased ratings and profits. Through prior
agenda setting, by not covering sweatshop stories and by subsequent saturated
coverage of the Gifford scandal, the media provide evidence that it is an agenda setting
institution with the ability (and intent in this author's opinion) to entertain instead of
inform the public.
Little did Gifford know on the morning of April 23, 1996, that by the end of the week
she would be publicly held responsible for the inhumane, harsh factory conditions where
her Wal-Mart clothing line was manufactured by children, resulting in an infotainment
spectacle that garnered national attention. Arriving on the set of LIVE! Regis and
Kathie Lee late and visibly irritated, Gifford displayed a tantrum on national
television--apparently her spring wardrobe had not yet arrived at the studio. Whining to
her co-host, Regis Philbin, as millions of viewers fell witness Gifford lamented,
"They treat us as if we were on local television!" (WWW: Around the
Dial). Such trivial problems were soon forgotten. A few days later on April 29, National
Labor Committee Director Charles Kernhagen addressed a gathering of House Democrats
explaining his discovery of the Honduran factory where children manufactured
Giffords Wal-Mart clothing line (WWW: Group Claims KLG). Kernhagen went on to
explain the harsh conditions and while holding up a pair of Giffords trousers made
in the Honduran factory, he added, "We call on Kathie Lee to use her national
prominence to say that never again will child labor be used to produce garments." At
this point, the media was uninterested in what Kernhagen had to say, preferring the
twelve-year old Canadian labor activist who had been featured on 60 Minutes the
previous evening (Kernhagen Interview, 5/18/99). Kernhagen left the gathering for New
York, having been trumped by a twelve-year old activist.
The definitive moment that catapulted Gifford into the news headlines was her
subsequent reaction to questions from a Los Angeles Times news reporter for an on-line
story that never even ran (Kernhagen Interview, 5/18/99). Forgoing a phone call to the NLC
or her publicist, Gifford went on her morning talk show and tearfully responded to
Kernhagens allegations as posed by the L.A. Times reporter, "You can say I'm
ugly, you can say I'm not talented. But when you say I don't care about children...mister,
you better answer your phone because my attorney is calling you today. How dare you?"
(Bearak, A1). Responding to Giffords sensational virtuoso performance, the media
picked up the story and ran with it just as Gifford ran with the issue to save her
credibility. She does, after all, contribute a portion of her Wal-Mart clothing line
profits to childrens charities. By the time Kernhagen arrived back in New York,
reporters inspired by Giffords tearful performance were waiting for him at the NLC
headquarters. In addition to wanting to know more about Giffords role, they wanted
to know what other celebrities endorsed products manufactured in sweatshops. Kernhagen
directed them to NIKE endorser, Michael Jordan, whose lack of a response to allegations
when questioned by reporters in a live post-game interview proved futile. Kernhagen argues
that without a response, especially like the one Gifford afforded, there is no story.
Jordan was spared the obligation of activism.
Kernhagen and Gifford, communicating through her spokesperson and House Democrats
rallied Labor Secretary Robert Reich to mobilize an anti-sweatshop campaign, even
launching radio and print ads to promote anti-sweatshop legislation. ( Link to advertisements) Understanding the
value that Gifford's celebrity and drama provided his cause, Kernhagen gladly joined
forces to promote the passage of legislation preventing sweatshop conditions and child
labor. Gifford didn't silently fall into her new role, "she tearfully told a crowd of
20,000 that the publicity over the sweatshop issue was blown out of proportion by the
media in a vicious backlash against her and Wal-Mart because her clothing line had sold so
well" (WWW: Sweatshops and Celebrities).
There is little evidence to support her anti-Wal-Mart accusation but much to refute it.
The media singled out Gifford, utilizing an episodic frame instead of a thematic one, as
will be evidenced in the content analysis section below. Employing episodic framing
enabled reporters to gloss over the historical context, broad societal and economic causes
or potential alternatives to sweatshop conditions. Why would the media want to denounce
Wal-Mart, the source of large advertising campaigns, thus revenue and profit? Kernhagen
suggests that reporters get "indirect hints" from networks when sensitive
stories arise, rendering minimal coverage (Kernhagen Interview, 5/18/99). Indeed, Wal-Mart
was not the primary target of this media campaign and was cited in stories much less
frequently than Gifford. Similarly, Disney's labor rights violations were overlooked at
the expense of Gifford. Disney owns the syndicated rights to LIVE! Regis and Kathie Lee
and could have also been an easy media targetespecially so being the worlds
largest retail chain maintaining manufacturing agreements with over 30,000 of the world's
factories (WWW: The Peoples Right to Know). Instead, Disney implemented its own coverage
providing for a comprehensive damage control campaign through one of its many media
outlets.
Syndicated columnist and media activist Norman Solomon criticized Disney for focusing
on the anguish of Gifford and Disney's vested interest in their television program instead
of on suffering sweatshop employees who manufacture Disney apparel in grave working
conditions. Solomon explains, "In May, while Disney continued to escape media
scrutiny of its consumer products, the company did what it could to stabilize Gifford's
career. When she failed to shake off the scandal, Disney wheeled a big gun: ABC News. In a
hastily arranged May 22 segment, ABC's "Prime Time Live" correspondent Diane
Sawyer acknowledged that both Gifford's syndicated show and ABC are owned by Disney.
"Prime Time" then proceeded with a sympathetic and even fawning treatment,"
touting Gifford's good charity work for children (Solomon, 15).
By focusing on Gifford and not the sweatshop issue, Disney and ABC framed the issue as
episodic, leading to the blame being assigned to Gifford instead of multi-national
corporations, policy-making institutions or societal factors. Such a frame primed the
public to evaluate the issue based on Gifford's behaviors, emotions and statements,
instead of on the historical context, reasons for international factory labor and the role
of multi-national corporations. A missed opportunity to educate the public indeed, but it
would have been at Disney's expense, forcing them to address labor violations. As Solomon
argues, "Disney has managed to stay clear of media brickbats over sweatshops. Such
avoidance is easier when a company owns many large media outlets. Both Disney and Wal-Mart
remained unscathed throughout the scandal, and Wal-Mart continues to enjoy its success as
the world's largest retailer, enjoying 1997 sales of $118 billion, putting it ahead of the
gross domestic product of 155 nations" (WWW: The Peoples Right to Know). The
disparity between multi-national corporations, like Wal-Mart and Disney and exploited
sweatshop laborers are evident in the following illustrations.



(Illustrations inserted from National Labor
Committee web site)
QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS
In an effort to illustrate the agenda-setting role of the media
in the Gifford sweatshop scandal, a quantitative analysis of newsprint stories was
conducted on May 10, 1999 using the on-line Lexis-Nexus data base. Pre-Kathie Lee Gifford
(KLG) refers to newsprint stories published from 4/30/93 to 4/30/96 and Post-KLG refers to
stories published from 4/30/96 to 4/30/99. These dates reflect stories printed during the
three years prior to the date the KLG story broke as well as the three years following the
day the story broke, April 30, 1996. While the "Methods and Data Sources"
section of this paper indicates a third category--those stories covered during the
scandal--such a category did not prove equitable and would have been arbitrarily assigned,
leading this researcher's discretion to rule its use out. The two selected categories are
comparable, representing equal amounts of time, rendering comparable findings for
analysis.
Nexus-Lexis subscribes to numerous mainstream newspapers, representative of the United
States, though not all-inclusive. There is, however, one flaw in the results at the onset.
Any Lexis-Nexus Key Word search that produces over 1,000 matches will not provide the
exact number of matches. It merely indicates that there are over 1,000 stories matching
the search criteria. Regardless of this flaw, in the two instances where the search
exceeded 1,000, there was a substantial increase from pre-KLG sweatshop stories, still
supporting the thesis though with incomplete data. Three categories were utilized in this
search:
General News Stories
Government and Political News
Apparel and Textile Labor News
Three keyword searches were conducted within General News Stories and Government and
Political News in accordance with the dates listed above:
Sweatshop
Sweatshop + KLG
Maquiladora
Such keyword searches brought additional factors to the fore, such as 1994-1995
coverage of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) as well as the El Monte,
California sweat-shop that was discovered in 1995, both discussed below.
Figure 1
LEXIS-LEXIS GENERAL NEWS
STORIES
KEY WORD SEARCH:
Sweatshop, Sweatshop +
KLG, Maquiladora
Pre and Post KLG Story
Break
* Post-KLG total exceeds 1,000 but due to
Nexus-Lexis search constraints, exact number beyond 1,000 not available
As Figure 1 illustrates, the three years leading up to the
Gifford scandal produced 697 general news stories on sweatshops. Contrary to the stated
thesis, sweatshop stories were covered in the media, most likely covering NAFTA and
the El Monte sweatshop story. The El Monte story accounts for much of the pre-KLG data but
it also contributes to the post-KLG data. In fact, the El Monte story received media
attention the same week the Gifford story broke. The two brothers who ran the illegal
operation were sentenced to six years in prison on April 23, 1996, as reported in the Sacramento
BEE on April 30, 1996. Although the media did in fact cover such stories, be it as a
result of the opportunity to report the "game of politics" associated with NAFTA
or the images of women locked in an El Monte housing complex sewing Mervyns
department store clothes for pennies a day, it was always as a result of a culminating
event, as in the Gifford case. Sweatshops have existed since the cottage industry, there
is a crisis worthy of coverage everyday, but the media gravitate toward the sensational,
preying on twelve-year old activists, celebrities and images of child laborers.
The post-KLG period produced over 1,000 general news stories of which 268 referred to
KLG. Also contributing to this pool of stories is the second Gifford sweatshop
story that broke the following year. Apparently, children in a New York based sweatshop
were found manufacturing Giffords Wal-Mart clothing line, a mere three blocks from
her television studio! Her husband, a popular former professional football player rushed
to the factory and passed out envelopes filled with one hundred dollar bills to the
disgruntled textile laborers who protested their employer for not paying them. Although
the exact number of generated stories is unknown as previously mentioned due to
Nexus-Lexis constraints, Figure 1 illustrates a proliferation of post-KLG sweatshop
stories.
Alternatively maquiladora stories remained the same in the pre and post-KLG periods.
When maquiladora stories were controlled for KLG stories, no matches were found, therefore
not included in the figure. It could be argued that since "sweatshop" was the
language used by Kernhagen when he fielded interviews, the media merely repeated the
language. Any actual reporting on behalf of journalists would have uncovered the fact
that, indeed, the Honduran factory manufacturing Giffords clothing line was also
referred to as a maquiladora, as are all garment factories in Latin America, in turn
creating a link to NAFTA and the role of the United States. Gifford stories were void of
such comprehensive analysis as the content analysis section will illustrate. In sum,
general news stories on sweatshops increased after the Gifford scandal, thus supporting
the agenda-setting theory.

Figure 2
LEXIS-NEXUS GOVERNMENT
AND POLITICAL NEWS
KEYWORD SEARCH:
Sweatshop, Sweatshop +
KLG, Maquiladora
Pre and Post KLG Story
Break
Government and political news stories on sweatshops more than
doubled after the Gifford story broke, of which 96 included coverage of Gifford, as
indicated in Figure 2. It is poignant that more sweatshop news stories appeared in
general news stories (Figure 1) than government and political news stories (Figure 2),
providing support for the episodic framing theory. As Iyengar and Paletz suggest, episodic
framing is indeed more prominent than thematic framing, leaving the government less
accountable than Gifford on the sweatshop issue. Government and political news stories
would be more likely to prime consumers to evaluate the governments role in
sweatshop labor instead of Giffords role.
Maquiladora news stories decreased after the Gifford story. NAFTA may be a contributing
factor of the higher incidence of maquiladora stories prior to the Gifford story, it was
highly controversial in the United States and Mexico, lending itself to sound-bite
coverage of the game of politics as its passage was negotiated. The subsequent decrease in
maquiladora stories after the Gifford story broke may be attributed to the passage of
NAFTA, leaving the story void of a "game of politics" to cover, therefore
contributing to its decreasing coverage.
Figure 3
LEXIS-NEXUS DATABASE
SEARCH
INDUSTRY AND MARKET NEWS:
Apparel and Textile
Labor News
Pre and Post KLG Story
Break
Post-KLG total exceeds 1,000 but due to
Nexus-Lexis search constraints, exact number beyond 1,000 not available
The Apparel and Textile Labor Industry and Market news also
indicates an increase in post-KLG stories, though the Lexis-Nexus industry search used
does not allow controlling for keywords, such as Kathie Lee Gifford. This leaves the
number of actual Gifford stories in question. However, the increased coverage illustrated
in Figure 3 supports the agenda-setting thesis, illustrating an increase of at
least 300 post-KLG stories.
In Sum, the data reveals a proliferation of sweatshop news stories after April 30,
1999, the day the Gifford story broke. Maquiladora coverage remained the same or dropped
of slightly, possibly reflecting the decreasing coverage of NAFTA. Additional factors
could have contributed to the proliferation of sweatshop stories, such as the conviction
of the El Monte sweatshop organizers in April of 1996 as well as the breaking of the second
Gifford sweatshop discovered in New York. Kernhagen credits the media with educating
Americans about sweatshops, rendering it a household term. "Everyone knows about the
Gifford story" Kernhagen added, citing a University of Ohio consumer attitude study
(Kernhagen Interview, 5/18/99). However, to know is not to understand. A look at how
the Gifford story was covered will address issues of priming and framing, shown in the
content analysis.
CONTENT ANALYSIS
An informal content analysis of news stories that surfaced after
the Gifford sweatshop scandal surfaced on April 30, 1996, indicates that the media did not
address the historical context or provide comprehensive coverage of the issue. Instead,
the media utilized the same priming and framing tactics that Disney used in its
"Prime Time Live" coverage of Gifford. On June 10, 1999 a random selection of
thirty news stories from a Lexis-Nexus Key Word Search: SWEATSHOP AND KATHIE LEE GIFFORD
was selected from a pool of 268 results. The content analysis accounted for the following
criteria in the thirty randomly selected news stories:
Historical Context
Comprehensive Coverage of Contemporary Issue
Thematic and Episodic Framing
In reporting the Gifford story a reporter, editor, news director or producer would be
faced with the decision of covering the actors involved, providing context, presenting
issue details and evaluating potential impact. The following general content analysis
seeks to confirm that the media overlooked historical context of sweatshops and
maquiladoras in addition to coverage of the issue details such as labor and gender. By
accounting for framing techniques, an assessment of priming potential is possible, as it
sheds light on how to evaluate the issue. The individual or institution being blamed or
targeted in media coverage is often the individual or institution that viewers evaluate
when formulating opinions.
Of the thirty stories randomly selected from the pool of 268, none of them offered
historical context or comprehensive coverage of the issue. Globalization or neo-liberal
policies were not mentioned once, albeit academic terms, but imperative in evaluating the
issue in this authors opinion. Furthermore, gender issues and income disparity were
rarely addressed, both necessary in understanding the causes and consequences of sweatshop
labor (Tiano). NAFTA was not integrated into the Gifford story, which would have shed
light on labor issues between Mexico, U.S. and Canada as a result of the agreement.
In addition to the lack of comprehensive analysis, the stories lacked ample statistics,
which incidentally are available directly from Charles Kernhagen. Although Kernhagen was
often mentioned and quoted in the thirty articles, the comments used pertained to the
people and organizations involved, not the historical context or broad societal factors,
which is predominately what can be found on the NLC web site. The information is available
and easily accessible, but was seldom used in the thirty stories evaluated. Ironically,
Kernhagen spends much of his time with reporters educating them on the issue and providing
them with such data( Kernhagen Interview, 5/18/99).
In sum, all thirty articles were episodic in nature, focusing on Gifford, Kernhagen,
Reich or Congress and all lacked comprehensive analysisproviding support for the
episodic framing theory. Unfortunately, no public opinion polls were conducted on this
topic so there is no scientific evidence to support the impact of priming and
framing on consumers.
CONCLUSION
The three pillars of media theory stand. This author concludes that there is evidence
of agenda-setting, priming and framing in the Gifford case study. However, there are
shortcomings in the thesis. It is difficult to directly link this authors
presumed prescription of media intentions, increased profit, to the story. One can make
inferences based on the entertainment nature of the news coverage, but nothing more. There
are indicators that media stories are pro-capitalist, avoiding negative coverage of
Wal-Mart and Disney so as not to damage advertising relations or subsidiary profits. But
again, this is difficult to infer with any certainty, though Kernhagen offered supporting
evidence for this thesis, having witnessed such relationships while working with numerous
networks and news organizations.
Despite the inner-workings and economic motives of the media, legislation was enacted
and America became aware of sweatshops. However, after the research, this author now has
similar misgivings of the legislative branch. Recall, when Kernhagen approached House
Democrats he was upstaged by a twelve-year old. The media and house representatives
were not interested in Kernhagens account of the Honduran factory. It was
Giffords teary plea to America that "checked" the interest of congress and
the media, triggering their flock to Kernhagen.
AFTERWORD
Despite the efforts of Kernhagen and the NLC, the United States
Congress, President Clinton, Gifford and other activists, the Apparel Industry Partnership
that grew out the Gifford scandal is not being enforced. The ink has dried and the
responsible parties are not being held accountable. Factories are not being monitored and
sweatshops are moving across borders when enforcement looms. (Kernhagen Interview:
5/19/99).
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